Shein would lose all its shine in a Hong Kong IPO
The author is a Reuters Breakingviews columnist. The opinions expressed are her own. Refiles to add index codes.
By Una Galani
MUMBAI, July 2 (Reuters Breakingviews) -As geopolitics deteriorate, capital is becoming less global. For fast-fashion giant Shein, it means the destination for its initial public offering will make a big difference to its fortunes.
The online retailer will debut in Hong Kong if its plan to list in London at a 50-billion-pound ($63 billion) valuation falls apart, the Financial Times reported on Friday, citing five people familiar with the situation. The company has given up on New York and is encountering rising scrutiny in the UK because of its Chinese roots and supply chain, as well as its contribution to fashion waste. But there are major downsides to its Plan C.
An IPO in the Chinese territory would slash the valuation Shein can secure, because there would be less demand for it.U.S. funds, such as the $857 billion Federal Retirement Thrift Investment Board, are shunning Hong Kong stocks on fears Washington may tighten investment restrictions.
Nor would Shein have any peers in Hong Kong to benchmark itself against; rivals including Zara-owner Inditex ITX.MC, Amazon AMZN.O, and even Temu - via its Chinese parent Pinduoduo PDD.O - trade on Western bourses, not Asian ones.
Worst of all, a Hong Kong listing might leave Shein as a large orphan stock in the city with inadequate equity research coverage. Analysts in the Asian hub may not understand the competitive nuances of fast-fashion in the United States, Shein’s most important market where it competes against Amazon. Other global companies traded in the Asian hub, like L'Occitane 0973.HK and Samsonite 1910.HK, want to leave the bourse, or are planning back-up listings elsewhere.
Finally, opting to go public in Hong Kong will bolster the perception that Shein is a Chinese company ripe for Western scrutiny. The company chaired by Donald Tang moved its headquarters to Singapore to distance itself from its roots in the People's Republic. It has not, though, convinced stakeholders that it is, like Apple AAPL.O or Tesla TSLA.O, just another global company with a big supply chain there.
Ultimately, stocks in the Asian hub suffer from a discount: Hong Kong's Hang Seng Index .HSI trades at 9 times 12-month forward earnings, versus 11 for London's FTSE 100 .FTSE and 21 times for New York's S&P 500 Composite .SPX.
All these issues help explain why the city's bourse has not hosted a multi-billion-dollar IPO for years, which adds another risk to the heap. The closer Shein edges to Asia, the worse its fortunes look.
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CONTEXT NEWS
Online fast-fashion group Shein has a back-up plan to seek a listing in Hong Kong, as its ambition for an initial public offering in London encounters rising scrutiny in the UK and China, the Financial Times reported on June 29, citing five people familiar with the situation.
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Hong Kong stock market valuations are low Hong Kong stock market valuations are low https://www.reuters.com/graphics/BRV-BRV/jnvwaaobqvw/chart.png
Editing by Antony Currie and Katrina Hamlin
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