Amazon dresses up its drab fashion with Saks stake
The author is a Reuters Breakingviews columnist. The opinions expressed are her own.
By Jennifer Saba
NEW YORK, July 10 (Reuters Breakingviews) -Amazon.com AMZN.O boss Andy Jassy is sharply pairing a tailored blazer with cheap cargo pants. The e-commerce goliath agreed to back Saks Fifth Avenue’s deal to buy rival swanky department store operator Neiman Marcus at the same time it’s considering a competitor to bargain clothing vendors Shein and Temu. A high-low approach should dress things up.
The $2 trillion company has had a hard time finding the right fit. Amazon accounts for 35% of U.S. apparel e-commerce sales this year, or about $60 billion of gross market value, research outfit eMarketer estimates. It claims about 60% of the office equipment and supplies market and half in computers and electronics.
There’s plenty of upside for Amazon. Luxury attire is far more profitable while fast fashion’s popularity looks sustainable. The Shein and Temu apps were both among the 10 most downloaded in May, according to Sensor Tower.
HBC, the parent company of Saks, said over the July 4 U.S. holiday that it would pay $2.7 billion for Neiman’s namesake chain and its luxe Bergdorf Goodman shops, a long-mooted deal as high-end merchants struggle to cater to online shoppers. Neiman Marcus also emerged from bankruptcy in 2020 only to encounter pressure from suppliers LVMH LVMH.PA and Richemont CFR.S. Joining forces with Saks in theory provides extra heft to negotiate on behalf of 150 locations with a combined $10 billion in annual sales.
Amazon’s investment is more promising than other recent initiatives. Four years ago, it opened Luxury Stores with Oscar de la Renta and sells pricey secondhand purses in partnership with What Goes Around Comes Around. The efforts haven’t taken off, evidenced by the deeper selection of designers available on the Saks and Neiman Marcus sites.
Moreover, Amazon’s business model clashes with reality because it seeks to keep a grip on pricing, customer data and brands. Makers of upscale goods have their own ideas and want to steer well clear of inexpensive alternatives. Having a stake in the newly created Saks Global arm, assuming trustbusters don’t intervene, should give Amazon a clearer window into how richer consumers shop, important insight considering that just 2% of customers account for half of all luxury industry revenue, according to analysts at TD Securities.
The lower end of the market is a bigger threat. Partly by exploiting U.S. tax loopholes, Shein and Temu are posing fresh challenges to Amazon, helping explain why it may start its own channel of Chinese vendors shipping directly to customers, per CNBC. As any fashionista knows, chic and affordable is often a winning combo.
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CONTEXT NEWS
HBC, the parent company of Saks Fifth Avenue, said on July 4 it had agreed to buy rival Neiman Marcus for $2.7 billion with plans to combine the upscale department store chains into a new group separate from its Hudson’s Bay business.
Saks Global also will include Saks Off 5th and Bergdorf Goodan, each of which will operate under their respective brands.
As part of the deal, Amazon.com and Salesforce will become investors in Saks Global. HBC said it had secured a $1.2 billion term loan from Apollo Global Management and a $2 billion revolving loan facility from Bank of America, Citigroup, Morgan Stanley, RBC Capital Markets and Wells Fargo.
M. Klein & Co and Solomon Partners are advising HBC. JPMorgan and Lazard are advising Neiman Marcus.
Graphic: Amazon's share of US e-commerce sales https://reut.rs/3XW9FfN
Editing by Jeffrey Goldfarb and Sharon Lam
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