Golden Goose IPO to test its Super-Star status
The author is a Reuters Breakingviews columnist. The opinions expressed are her own.
By Karen Kwok
LONDON, June 11 (Reuters Breakingviews) -Golden Goose's imminent Milan listing will test the resilience of both the initial public offering (IPO) market and the luxury sector. The Permira-owned company, which sells $550-a-pair Super-Star sneakers popular with celebrities like Taylor Swift, on Tuesday picked a relatively conservative price range for its float. There are good reasons that explain why it may be struggling to attract the same buzz as its best-selling fashion item.
The Italian brand declared its intention to float last month. It will use some proceeds to repay debt while private equity firm Permira plans to remain a major shareholder.
Golden Goose looks healthy. Last year, revenue grew 18% to 587 million euros and EBITDA jumped 19% to 200 million euros. Its chunky 34% EBITDA margin and heavy reliance on selling one chief luxury item draw similarities to Italian top brand Moncler MONC.MI, which reported a roughly 40% EBITDA margin in 2023. If valued on Moncler’s 14 times EBITDA multiple for last year, Golden Goose would in theory be worth 2.8 billion euros ($3 billion) including net debt. That’s double the price Permira paid for the company in 2020.
But the buyout group has picked a more modest mark. On Tuesday, the group set a price range giving a 1.8 billion euro market value at the midpoint, or 2.2 billion euros including debt – equivalent to 11 times 2023 EBITDA.
The question for investors is whether Golden Goose will rise above that level. The optimistic case is that some other European IPOs have had a good run. Apart from heavily indebted beauty company Douglas DOU1.DE, three other big listings this year — Puig PUIGb.MC, Galderma GALD.S, CVC Capital Partners CVC.AS — are on average trading 22% above their listing price.
On the other hand, investors may question whether Golden Goose’s growth will hold up. The group run by Silvio Campara expects to expand sales by nearly 10% annually in the next six years and surpass 1 billion euros in revenue by 2029, according to a person familiar with the matter. That’s slightly above Moncler’s 8% expected revenue growth this year, per LSEG data, but lower than Golden Goose’s past expansion rate. To keep luring customers, Golden Goose could diversify beyond sneakers to bags or expand its store networks. But such steps require heavy investments and could threaten its profit margins.
The luxury sector is also experiencing a slowdown. Shares in Moncler and industry leader LVMH LVMH.PA are down 2% and 11% respectively in the past 12 months. Another Permira-owned foot brand, Dr Martens DOCS.L, has also struggled and its shares are down 77% from its IPO price in London in 2021. Those factors suggest that Golden Goose’s less ebullient valuation target is appropriate.
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CONTEXT NEWS
Golden Goose, owned by private equity firm Permira, on June 11 set a price range for its initial public offering of between 9.50 euros and 10.50 euros, implying a market value of 1.7 billion euros to 1.9 billion euros.
Permira will sell between 408 million euros and 458 million euros worth of its shares, equivalent to about one-quarter of the company. Golden Goose itself will raise 100 million euros from issuing new stock.
Funds advised by Invesco Advisers will act as cornerstone investors and acquire 100 million euros of shares in the offering, the company added.
The first day of trading is expected on June 21.
Europe's 2024 IPOs are largely trading above their listing price https://reut.rs/3VAIpl6
Editing by Lisa Jucca, Liam Proud and Streisand Neto
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